Saga of newest build - or Honey, I lied - 80% lower build

[fnfalguy]

I'm going to start a thread for those who have interest or are bored. Either way, it will likely amuse me. This is going to be the completion of an AR lower, maybe 2 starting with an 80%. I figure with the ground wet tomorrow, I wont likely want to go to the range, so, I'll build an AR instead. Some like to play with thimbles, I want to make aluminum chips this weekend.

For the first project, I'll be starting out with an 80% from Brownells. For those who are not familiar with them, they look like this:



I'll be using a 5D tactical jig that just came back from them after being serviced. The first lower I tried to make with it milled great, but the selector hole was not round and that created issues during the function checking. They replaced the bushings for the selector hole, so we shall see how this goes.

All I did for today was to mount it in the jig and then use the harbor freight drill press to drill the starting hole. This could also be done with a hand drill.

This is what it looks like with the guide on top for the initial hole


And when finished, it looks like this. I have no clue how long it took, this isn't going to be a speed build as the mongol horde is not currently invading and I do not need it in the next 5 mins.

 

[fnfalguy]

OK, so not only did I lie to the War Department, I lied to y’all. I had to do something at lunch so I wandered towards the allure of power tools and worked on it. First off, this is going to be rather verbose and with pictures. For those who cannot read, enjoy my Ansel Adams abilities with an iPhone/iPad.

So one thing that I liked in concept about this set up (5D) is that their end mill replaces the collet of the router. I have an 80% ARMS jig which worked fantastic as well, but i found myself having to keep tightening the end mill (gratuitous point as I’m going to be putting it up in the marketplace shortly). https://www.5dtactical.com/ar-15-80-lower-jig-p/5d-jig15.htm
https://www.5dtactical.com/end-mill-80-lower-jig-p/5d-rm.htm

So a couple of things right off the bat, wear eye and ear protection, its loud and messy. One ugly downside, is that since we are playing with aluminum, if you were to catch a piece in the eye, its not coming out with a magnet. Go picture that for a second. I’ll wait.

Ok, still willing to play along? Do not take anything I describe as Gospel or professional instructions. I’m just an idiot like the rest of you. Well except for @meketrefe as he seems rather smart. Not like @Eddie Gunks who just thinks he’s smart

Next item, we are all big boys and girls here and other basic safety applies. Unplug the equipment when you are putting your hands around things that spin at ungodly speeds no matter how many times you have done it before. It only takes a quick distraction and it can be life changing. I also would suggest minimizing distractions and avoiding the use of wobbly pops while doing this. OK, on to the show.

I set the bugger up in my vice and made sure that the shop vac was connected as I found out previously without the use of a shop vac that while we may find the sharp silvery snow is pretty, our better halves may not share our feeling about shiny things.


The jig is actually pretty well thought out. There are three milling steps which brilliantly appear on the jig as 1, 2 and 3. Corresponding with these depths are spacers which get attached to the base of the router. The jig itself has depth gauge hashes for you to use as you adjust the router. I went in 1/2 hash increments as I wanted a smoother finish and I remember that you can always remove more material, but the trick is trying to put it back.

When you start, you want to make sure the end mill starts in the "pilot hole"

I included a photo where I prematurely stopped so you can get an rough idea of how much material I was removing at a time.

So you keep adjusting the router depth until you finish step one.

Then you do the same for step 2

And then step 3

The after some clean up, it was back to the drill press. Since I have one, its getting used. Drilling of the selector hole was first and the drill is long enough to do both sides.

Then the drilling of the hammer and trigger pin holes. For this, the drill was too short so after doing one side it got flipped to do the other.

Then more clean up with compressed air and this is what it looked like.

And then poof. You have one of these.


And as a side note adding photos in the right locations in a PITA

 

[96coal449]

Subscribed

 

[Eddie Gunks]

Are you done yet?

 

[fnfalguy]

Are you done yet?

Let’s hope I don’t put the trigger guard in backwards. That would certainly be a rookie mistake.

 

[96coal449]

rookie mistake.

Just leave it out completely.

 

[2WheelGnnr]

jumped on board as i wanna do this sometime!!!!

 

[Blimey]

jumped on board as i wanna do this sometime!!!!

At least get the blank now. You never know what the state will do.

 

[2WheelGnnr]

Thats the plan.....start ordering parts as money allows......NOW

 

[2WheelGnnr]

I need to start lurking over at ar.com to learn more but one question I see as looking at jigs and 80% lower......I pRESUME that the lowers are Not caliber specific...it all depends what up put in as the upper and barrell? the only thing I see that they specify is .308....

Always wanted a .223 so I want to pop my cherry with a .223 lower but looks like it does not matter any lower can be any caliber pretty much...thats what im seeing but I will lurk around and find out for sure...I guess thats my biggest question as a ar-15 newbie...

 

[fnfalguy]

@2WheelGnnr The lowers are sort of caliber specific in groups. You can get a typical AR15 lower which will take your typical AR15 mags and any calibers that will work in those, then you can get an AR10 lower, which takes AR10 mags, then there is an AR9 lower which does 9mm. The jig I’m currently using will do both AR15 and AR9, but you can get some other pieces for it so you can do AR10. Clear as mud I’m sure.

 

[2WheelGnnr]

fnfalguy -
im starting to see that..... Im thinking a .223 might be the way to go for my first. I finally saw a sight that sells them and yes I see you have to specify caliber...
so most must ask when you buy or check what caliber you are looking for... I may even stock up and myself a couple lowers and I see the lower are all pretty cheap compared to the uppers...but overall seems like it is much cheaper to build one than by one.

thanks for feedback

 

[99cummins]

As for the cost, if you are looking at 1 or 2 builds, you are better off buying the completed receivers. If you like to do things on your own, then the 80% lowers make sense.

Don’t forget the benefit of the 80% lower (probably) never being recorded anywhere since it’s just a block of metal.

 

[2WheelGnnr]

thats why going for the 80percenter!! and the thought of doing myself seems fun... im handy.. should be fun.

 

[Blimey]

I need to start lurking over at ar.com to learn more but one question I see as looking at jigs and 80% lower......I pRESUME that the lowers are Not caliber specific...it all depends what up put in as the upper and barrell? the only thing I see that they specify is .308....

Always wanted a .223 so I want to pop my cherry with a .223 lower but looks like it does not matter any lower can be any caliber pretty much...thats what im seeing but I will lurk around and find out for sure...I guess thats my biggest question as a ar-15 newbie...

Further to what fnfalguy said just after your post...

Basically all the AR15 lowers are going to work with .223 or 5.56, and those are the calibers you'll want to break your cherry on. Some of the Ar15 lowers say "multi caliber" and some don't. It doesn't matter.

All you really need is an "ar 15 lower". Most (if not all) will also claim to be "mil spec". What these receivers mean by that is their tolerances and measurements are all within military specifications. The creation of the part itself may not in fact be mil-spec (e.g. it may not be forged). This does not matter whatsoever.

If you're short on funds and do not care about an 80% lower, call around to local stores and get a "stripped AR 15 lower". It will run ~$50-100+ (probably around $90 or so), it's the serialized part of the gun, the one that requires a background check and, in my opinion, the one that will be grandfathered if a new law comes out.

It's not cheaper to build than buy. Anderson lowers are $50/pop (they are fine--and also "mil spec"). After start up costs, etc. you'll never get them cheaper than that yourself.

If you already own a drill press, a james madison tactical polymer lower is $100. Get a $30 X/Y vise from harbor freight and the right bit from amazon for $10 and you have all you need (that james madison one includes a jig).

 

[Blimey]

Don’t forget the benefit of the 80% lower (probably) never being recorded anywhere since it’s just a block of metal.

Although if you can't find a local provider technically there will be a record of the online purchase. Of course, if you screw the build up you'll have to throw the blank in the trash, right

I believe it's important to have a serialized lower as well. If it gets to the point where all of them need to be registered now you have something you can bring to the range.

 

[2WheelGnnr]

thanks for the info..... im really getting into this and excited. once I do one. who knows where it will stop...just saw you can do a 80% 1911 too.....oh this is gonna be fun.......

 

[Eddie Gunks]

thanks for the info..... im really getting into this and excited. once I do one. who knows where it will stop...just saw you can do a 80% 1911 too.....oh this is gonna be fun.......

Buy a ghost gunner machine.

 

[Blimey]

thanks for the info..... im really getting into this and excited. once I do one. who knows where it will stop...just saw you can do a 80% 1911 too.....oh this is gonna be fun.......

Yeah it doesn't seem people do those so much. i think the issue in part at least in this state is the second you finish it you now have a pistol without it being on your permit, so it's illegal.

 

[fnfalguy]

@Blimey thats what is holding me back from doing up a 80% glock pistol. If I was in a free state, I would in a heartbeat. Just not in NY

 

[Eddie Gunks]

@Blimey thats what is holding me back from doing up a 80% glock pistol. If I was in a free state, I would in a heartbeat. Just not in NY

Pussy

 

[fnfalguy]

And for todays adventure, I introduce you to Hell Kitty, the wife’s rifle. She wanted something with some color, so we added some accents for her. I highlighted the kitty with chalk for visibility, but she will be doing it in whatever color she wants.

 

[alistair]

And for todays adventure, I introduce you to Hell Kitty, the wife’s rifle. She wanted something with some color, so we added some accents for her. I highlighted the kitty with chalk for visibility, but she will be doing it in whatever color she wants.

View attachment 37955 View attachment 37956 View attachment 37957 View attachment 37958

Nice. Out of interest .... do you use a threadless barrel or do you permanently install a cap on the end of a threaded barrel?

 

[fnfalguy]

@alistair these have a thread protector attached to avoid the evil, nasty, dangerous threads.

 

[alistair]

@alistair these have a thread protector attached to avoid the evil, nasty, dangerous threads.

Do you use loctite or do you pin/weld?

 

[fnfalguy]

I’ve done silver solder as well as loctite. Depends on my day. Haven’t done the drill and pin thing before. Back in the day when I was building L1A1s I got comfortable with silver soldering

 

[FrankenCub]

in my opinion, the one that will be grandfathered if a new law comes out.

In this political climate I wouldn't put my money on AR's being grandfathered. Filling out a BGC for tells them who has a lower. If they decide at their whim that an all out ban is needed, they know you bought one. Maybe have one to sacrifice, but have a few 80% lowers stashed away. And if they force through the 80% ban, better get them now. Not like anyone who knows how to use a mill can't make one from a solid block of aluminum, but an 80% is much easier for the garage mechanic.

 

[2WheelGnnr]

can you buy a stripped or completed lower locally if I was get a build kit and buy the receiver locally or know of an FFL that accepts transfers of them?!

 

[Calculon]

Most FFLs sell stripped lowers or complete rifles (compliant or fixed mag) so you could but the receiver and finish it yourself. Depending on transfer fee it may not be worth buying online. Shop around for retail prices and transfer fees.

 

[Robin]

fnfalguy, don't know how I missed this, but I did. Nice job on your presentation, its seems like a pretty straight forward process. Looks to me like it could be done before my morning coffee break. I think I will dig deeper. any recommendations for blanks jigs? Or even stay away froms?
Robin