Considering getting into Reloading

[Depick]

Mystery solved.

ETA. Will you be using a vibratory tumbler or wet tumbling? If you're going to use a vibratory tumbler this may not even be an issue after your first firing. Reason being, a vibratory never gets the casings 100% clean. The carbon will act as a lubricant. The brass will also be a bit more worked and elastic. As an experiment, if you still have some casings you didn't load up yet, try sizing one and then lubing it. Make sure to get the inside. Clean the expander bell off thoroughly. Then bell the casing. If you still get some shavings/brass dust the bell is definitely slightly out of spec/rough. Polishing it would still be the solution to the problem.

I will give that a try.

 

[Depick]

Mystery solved.

ETA. Will you be using a vibratory tumbler or wet tumbling? If you're going to use a vibratory tumbler this may not even be an issue after your first firing. Reason being, a vibratory never gets the casings 100% clean. The carbon will act as a lubricant. The brass will also be a bit more worked and elastic. As an experiment, if you still have some casings you didn't load up yet, try sizing one and then lubing it. Make sure to get the inside. Clean the expander bell off thoroughly. Then bell the casing. If you still get some shavings/brass dust the bell is definitely slightly out of spec/rough. Polishing it would still be the solution to the problem.

I will be picking up a vibratory tumbler.

 

[Acer-m14]

I will be picking up a vibratory tumbler.

below link is what I have and use and corn cob media and a little squirt of car polish in it .. ( Nu Finish )

60 bucks ..

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-N-EZ-Vibratory-Polishing/dp/B001MYGLJC/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=bOQt4&content-id=amzn1.sym.3c3990c3-513c-4686-8d92-a42b4095cecb%3Aamzn1.symc.8b620bc3-61d8-46b3-abd9-110539785634&pf_rd_p=3c3990c3-513c-4686-8d92-a42b4095cecb&pf_rd_r=V93823H5QQJDRKDQ30QR&pd_rd_wg=0eG9E&pd_rd_r=49d1cdcd-d365-4209-985a-2829afa61ca4&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_d&th=1

Media ... 13 bucks ...7lbs will last a wile

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Tumbler-Reloading-Shooting/dp/B001ABQT9O/ref=pd_bxgy_d_sccl_2/137-9071705-2131637?pd_rd_w=MLjkN&content-id=amzn1.sym.839d7715-b862-4989-8f65-c6f9502d15f9&pf_rd_p=839d7715-b862-4989-8f65-c6f9502d15f9&pf_rd_r=FW259EKR8C1YXZ4YYYE3&pd_rd_wg=1Dzo3&pd_rd_r=2cf55835-2e85-4c7e-b1ba-04895a77b307&pd_rd_i=B001ABQT9O&th=1

 

[Acer-m14]

i have loaded that up with like 100 to 150 rounds of mixed brass ..

turn it on and let it run over night while sleeping and then when wake up .. 8 to 12 hours later ..


PS get a sifter too or make your own .. so you can shake the media out of the brass and reuse it ..

 

[kev74]

I use walnut hulls (lizard bedding from pet store) with a squirt of car wax and a cap full of mineral spirits. You don't need the wax every time, but the mineral spirits will dry out between uses. The wax makes the brass smoother feeling and easier to work. The mineral spirits keeps down dust and helps cut through lube. I get several years of moderate to heavy use out of a bowl full of media before I need to replace it.

 

[Acer-m14]

@kev74 about the same with my corn media

only added a squirt for the first load of corn ..

 

[mgunner]

I will be picking up a vibratory tumbler.

My opinion is to call RCBS before you try to fix the die or buy anymore equipment. Email RCBS, tell them what the problem is, and send them pictures of the the expander. You shouldn't have to fix a brand new die. If it's a defect they will replace it.

 

[Depick]

My opinion is to call RCBS before you try to fix the die or buy anymore equipment. Email RCBS, tell them what the problem is, and send them pictures of the the expander. You shouldn't have to fix a brand new die. If it's a defect they will replace it.

That is probably the safe bet for my limited experience.

 

[Acer-m14]

just putting this out here ..

DIY case lube .. i used the dry gas ( red bottle Heet ) and nipple lube ( the lanolin for breast feeding )

if it gets cold it will gel up ... so you have to keep it warm ..

 

[kev74]

just putting this out here ..

DIY case lube .. i used the dry gas ( red bottle Heet ) and nipple lube ( the lanolin for breast feeding )

if it gets cold it will gel up ... so you have to keep it warm ..

I use the same mix for rifle cases.

 

[repete]

just putting this out here ..

DIY case lube .. i used the dry gas ( red bottle Heet ) and nipple lube ( the lanolin for breast feeding )

if it gets cold it will gel up ... so you have to keep it warm ..

Thanks! I'm going to have to give that a try, I'm just about out of store bought spray lube.

 

[Depick]

Reached out to RCBS multiple times and still haven’t received a response. I’m going to polish the expander this weekend.

Im going to try and finish up 10 rounds and head off to the gun club to shoot them and see what happens.

 

[mgunner]

Reached out to RCBS multiple times and still haven’t received a response. I’m going to polish the expander this weekend.

Im going to try and finish up 10 rounds and head off to the gun club to shoot them and see what happens.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Depick]

Let us know how it goes.

Will do

 

[Acer-m14]

@Depick

backing up a bit .. was that actually clean brass you got ?? never fired ??

just saying you had no vibrator then .. correct

------------------------------

all the pistol brass i get ..

i vibrated it for a few hours new or once fired .. or range finds

mixed pistol brass in the vibrator also make cases stick into each other

PITA to separate .. LOL

i never had that issue here reloading 9mm and 10mm and 357mag

never had this issue with lee dies .. i would expect RCBS to be lots better ..

just saying .. your new to this and i was back a few yrs ago ..

it could have been dirty new brass you got ..



just saying

 

[Depick]

@Depick

backing up a bit .. was that actually clean brass you got ?? never fired ??

just saying you had no vibrator then .. correct

------------------------------

all the pistol brass i get ..

i vibrated it for a few hours new or once fired .. or range finds

mixed pistol brass in the vibrator also make cases stick into each other

PITA to separate .. LOL

i never had that issue here reloading 9mm and 10mm and 357mag

never had this issue with lee dies .. i would expect RCBS to be lots better ..

just saying .. your new to this and i was back a few yrs ago ..

it could have been dirty new brass you got ..



just saying

I purchased what was advertised as new unprimed CBC brass from powder valley. I did not resize it or clean it before hand as I did not think it was necessary. I did order a vibratory tumbler that should arrive tomorrow. I read on a few forums that the case wall on this type of brass is thicker than the average cartridge.

 

[fresch]

Ok
Resize
No primer
No powder
Expand
Bullet seating
9mm taper crimp
Take gun apart
Take set up round and see if it will "plunk" in to the breach
Adjust seating die until it plunks, keeping an eye on the cartridge measurements
If you have A factory round it can speed up the die settings if the bullet is similar; what seating rod are you using (round, semiwadcutter,...)

 

[Depick]

Ok
Resize
No primer
No powder
Expand
Bullet seating
9mm taper crimp
Take gun apart
Take set up round and see if it will "plunk" in to the breach
Adjust seating die until it plunks, keeping an eye on the cartridge measurements
If you have A factory round it can speed up the die settings if the bullet is similar; what seating rod are you using (round, semiwadcutter,...)

I will be using the round seating rod. I’m using 115g round nose FMJ from Hornady. I have a 9mm cartridge gauge as well.

 

[FP1201]

Ok
Resize
No primer
No powder
Expand
Bullet seating
9mm taper crimp
Take gun apart
Take set up round and see if it will "plunk" in to the breach
Adjust seating die until it plunks, keeping an eye on the cartridge measurements
If you have A factory round it can speed up the die settings if the bullet is similar; what seating rod are you using (round, semiwadcutter,...)

Counterintuitive as it sounds, I was always advised to resize brand new Brass, and I have found that foreign made cases are particularly "fat" and won't chamber properly out of the Bag.
Getting a stuck case out of a Die can really suck...the "Stuck Case Removal Tool" amounts to a drill bit, 1/4" tap and screws to thread into the tapped hole you make in the primer pocket (case is fubar"d) most of the time it works, sometimes it doesn't.
RCBS used to, maybe still does remove or replace cases stuck in their Dies for free. When you're sizing and it really starts fighting you STOP! back it out, recoat the case in lube, take a minute to make sure there isn't something way out of spec with the case. (.300 Win fired in a .300 Wby) and try sizing it again...if it really doesn't want to size, then scrap it and move on, because if you keep screwing around with it and it gets really stuck you're done until you either get it pulled out or get it back from RCBS.

 

[Depick]

Well first 10 rounds are an absolute failure. I utilized reloading data from Hodgdon’s website for the powder I was using.

HP-38 - 4.5 grains
Hornady 115g FMJ RN
CCI No. 500 small pistol primer
CMC 9mm brass case
COAL 1.100”

It took a little bit but I dialed in the powder measure to throw 4.5 grains. I verified each charge on a digital scale. I had quite a bit of difficulty getting a consistent seat on each bullet. The 10 rounds I produced ranged from 1.1035” to 1.100”. I then crimped each round according to the directions with the dies. Not a single round would drop right into the Lyman cartridge gauge. Most sat above and were difficulty to get out of the cartridge gauge. I put quite a bit of crimp on one round and it sat farther into the cartridge gauge but not all the way and was difficult to remove.

For the time being I am going to take a walk and collect my thoughts. I feel I need to scrap everything I have done so far and start from step 1 which kind of sucks as I have 50 cases expanded and primed. But I feel as thought something is definitely wrong. Maybe not resizing the new brass is the issue.

I’m thinking I need a more comprehensive guide on the process that details every single step. The Lyman and Speer books I have are mainly cartridge data.

 

[kev74]

Well first 10 rounds are an absolute failure. I utilized reloading data from Hodgdon’s website for the powder I was using.

HP-38 - 4.5 grains
Hornady 115g FMJ RN
CCI No. 500 small pistol primer
CMC 9mm brass case
COAL 1.100”

It took a little bit but I dialed in the powder measure to throw 4.5 grains. I verified each charge on a digital scale. I had quite a bit of difficulty getting a consistent seat on each bullet. The 10 rounds I produced ranged from 1.1035” to 1.100”. I then crimped each round according to the directions with the dies. Not a single round would drop right into the Lyman cartridge gauge. Most sat above and were difficulty to get out of the cartridge gauge. I put quite a bit of crimp on one round and it sat farther into the cartridge gauge but not all the way and was difficult to remove.

For the time being I am going to take a walk and collect my thoughts. I feel I need to scrap everything I have done so far and start from step 1 which kind of sucks as I have 50 cases expanded and primed. But I feel as thought something is definitely wrong. Maybe not resizing the new brass is the issue.

I’m thinking I need a more comprehensive guide on the process that details every single step. The Lyman and Speer books I have are mainly cartridge data.

The Lee carbide factory crimp die will resize the case after the bullet is seated. All rounds will pass the case gauge test after using.

Try using the barrel of your pistol instead of the case gauge. The barrel will likely have a looser tolerance, and there may not be an issue using these rounds.

 

[Depick]

The Lee carbide factory crimp die will resize the case after the bullet is seated. All rounds will pass the case gauge test after using.

Try using the barrel of your pistol instead of the case gauge. The barrel will likely have a looser tolerance, and there may not be an issue using these rounds.

I used RCBS dies. It is a combination seating and crimping die. But i will try them in a pistol barrel.

 

[FP1201]

Well first 10 rounds are an absolute failure. I utilized reloading data from Hodgdon’s website for the powder I was using.

HP-38 - 4.5 grains
Hornady 115g FMJ RN
CCI No. 500 small pistol primer
CMC 9mm brass case
COAL 1.100”

It took a little bit but I dialed in the powder measure to throw 4.5 grains. I verified each charge on a digital scale. I had quite a bit of difficulty getting a consistent seat on each bullet. The 10 rounds I produced ranged from 1.1035” to 1.100”. I then crimped each round according to the directions with the dies. Not a single round would drop right into the Lyman cartridge gauge. Most sat above and were difficulty to get out of the cartridge gauge. I put quite a bit of crimp on one round and it sat farther into the cartridge gauge but not all the way and was difficult to remove.

For the time being I am going to take a walk and collect my thoughts. I feel I need to scrap everything I have done so far and start from step 1 which kind of sucks as I have 50 cases expanded and primed. But I feel as thought something is definitely wrong. Maybe not resizing the new brass is the issue.

I’m thinking I need a more comprehensive guide on the process that details every single step. The Lyman and Speer books I have are mainly cartridge data.

Don't get too hung up on OAL in the thousandth of an inch in Pistol cartridges.
Pistol cases such as 9mm, ,40, 10mm and even ,45 get "bulges" at the base which will prevent the case from dropping into the checker, and even into the chamber...Lee makes a "Bulge Buster" die that works very well, but for unknown reasons they don't make it for 9mm; .380 yes, but not 9x19...must be they have a reason. Lee's Factory Crimp Die works phenomenally.

 

[Depick]

The Lee carbide factory crimp die will resize the case after the bullet is seated. All rounds will pass the case gauge test after using.

Try using the barrel of your pistol instead of the case gauge. The barrel will likely have a looser tolerance, and there may not be an issue using these rounds.

8 out of 10 dropped right in and came right out of the barrel.

 

[Depick]

Don't get too hung up on OAL in the thousandth of an inch in Pistol cartridges.
Pistol cases such as 9mm, ,40, 10mm and even ,45 get "bulges" at the base which will prevent the case from dropping into the checker, and even into the chamber...Lee makes a "Bulge Buster" die that works very well, but for unknown reasons they don't make it for 9mm; .380 yes, but not 9x19...must be they have a reason. Lee's Factory Crimp Die works phenomenally.

I thought some variability would be ok as long as it wasn’t too extreme either way. Truth be told I’m not very happy with the RCBS dies and have been considering getting a 4 piece Lee set in 9mm.

 

[repete]

All ways resize, new or used! Some times you can get away with neck sizing but that's a whole different critter!

 

[Robin]

New and used, I resize them all.
Robin

 

[Depick]

Well I’ve cleared my head. I’m going to set aside what I already have worked on. I am going to start over completely with new cases and go through each step and see if things work out better. I’m going to read up a little better before I do so. Thank you all for your support.

 

[togmaster]

Don't get too hung up on OAL in the thousandth of an inch in Pistol cartridges.
Pistol cases such as 9mm, ,40, 10mm and even ,45 get "bulges" at the base which will prevent the case from dropping into the checker, and even into the chamber...Lee makes a "Bulge Buster" die that works very well, but for unknown reasons they don't make it for 9mm; .380 yes, but not 9x19...must be they have a reason. Lee's Factory Crimp Die works phenomenally.

9mm is a tapered case. Bulge buster only works with straight walled cases. You need to use a roll sizer for 9. None of this applies to the OP. He is using new brass. This info is for range pick-up that has been fired from a chamber that is not fully supported (glock).

 

[gun_slinger_boy]

Way over thinking this. Just take the belled cases that you have and full length size them. Then bell again and charge/seat. If I were you, and to keep things simple for now, try seating and crimping in two separate operations. Then use your barrel for the plunk test. Get a LEE factory crimp die. Or as you've said you might do get an entire set.