2WheelGnnr
6.5 Creedmoor
whats the best method for me to get some beginning surface rust of of my barrels..so old guns begining surface rust want to clean them and lube them to keep it from going further.... Thank you
Best Way to Get surface Rusting off of blue gun barrel??
- Thread starter 2WheelGnnr
- Start date
IrishMick
.44 mag
Try using an older COPPER penny and some oil. Put some oil on the barrel and lightly rub the penny back and forth. I have had this work for me.
kev74
20×102mm Vulcan
Put the metal pieces in boiling water, then buff with 0000 steel wool. Same process as rustbluing, so the orange rust gets converted to blue/black.
Mark Novak has good videos showing this on YouTube.
Mark Novak has good videos showing this on YouTube.
FRANKIE
.308 Win
Be cautious. Rust is abrasive. There are multiple ways to approach this. There are a lot of excellent tutorials on you tube on this. If all fails, you can always go back to the white, smooth down, cold blue and Polish. The results can be rewarding enough that you will be happy that half assed removal of spot and surface rusting didn’t work out. Remember, if you go the refinish rout, preparation is everything and use a good solution.
kev74
20×102mm Vulcan
Extreme example.
Uzi
.308 Win
If it's just a light spot of surface rust that isn't deeply pitted or really bad you can scrub it down with something like gun oil or WD-40 with a brillo pad, then clean if off well and use a Birchwood Casey bluing pen to touch it up for an instant result.
I've been doing this for many years on various guns that have blued parts. Usually works really well for me with professional looking results. Only costs about $8 and the full sized kits are probably still under $30 which are really nice too. Sometimes you'll need to let it dry and do a few more applications, but it still takes very little time.
I've been doing this for many years on various guns that have blued parts. Usually works really well for me with professional looking results. Only costs about $8 and the full sized kits are probably still under $30 which are really nice too. Sometimes you'll need to let it dry and do a few more applications, but it still takes very little time.
stokes
.338 Win Mag
I just cleaned up an old single shot .22 my BIL found in a wall in his cabin. Wasnt pitted but had a lot of rust. I used 0000 steel wool and some Gunzilla.
Wow, another Gunzilla user, what are the chances. It came out about 15 years ago as organic alternative to CLP, but never became popular. I still have two small sample bottles they were giving away at the National Matches. I use it just for rust as it does a better job than CLP. It is made from plants, so there is no health concerns from exposure.
stokes
.338 Win Mag
I thought it was more than 15 yrs ago. When I first got it I used it for cleaning guns. I read about how it bonds with the metal and can be pretty much wiped off and will still protect and lube. It was developed for the military to use in the mid east sand pit, doesnt attract dust and grit. I actually use it to coat my guitar strings. At the time I was gigging regularly and rehearsing once a week. Strings would last me about a month. With the gunzilla treatment I get 4 or 5 mos. Still use it for both, guns and guitars
FRANKIE
.308 Win
Ok on the fretboard?
stokes
.338 Win Mag
I have used it on fretboards as well, dont think its any better than lemon oil in that application. If I'm doing fretwork or just cleaning a fretboard and the gunzilla is closer I'll grab it. For the strings I use a 1"x2" piece of felt, put a couple drops on one end apply it to the string and then wipe it off with the dry end. I did tests on my own axes for about 5 yrs before I used it on anybody elses guitar.
GOYABEAN
.950 JDJ
Saltwater60
20×102mm Vulcan
What I have done and worked well for me is acetone, then 0000 steel wool with oxpho blue and then I do the 0000 steel wool with gun oil, wipe off between with acetone then a light coat of oil. Sometimes you have to do the blueing treatment more than once. I have guns that I did this with 4-5 years ago and no rust has returned. I have one that was pretty pitted that I found in the drop ceiling of my old house 20 years ago and it still looks great. Yes you can see some pitting but that’s life for a free gun.
FRANKIE
.308 Win
MuttCat
.223 Rem
I've used copper wool scrubbies the same way...no edges, and never marred the finish.
Robin
.577 Tyrannosaur.
This'll do the trick!
Robin
Robin
Saltwater60
20×102mm Vulcan
So did I and I was removing it. It was one of those industrial looking ones in one small section of my basement. Started taking it down and thought it was an old plumbing or gas line it nope it was an old mossberg with a bad firing pin.I always hated drop ceiling’s…..
Till now
Saltwater60
20×102mm Vulcan
A lot of copper scrubbies are now just copper coated and fall right apart.
Cavalry
.338 Win Mag
The first rule is do no damage. There have been some good suggestions and some not so great thus far.
If wood is near, take it off. First try kroil or similar and a rag, if that does not do it very lightly go after it with 0000 steel wool while keeping wet with oil. When I say lightly, I mean lightly, let the wool do its job. If you start making rust slurry, stop, clean it off with oil and clean your wool in mineral spirits or the like. If the rust does not go away in a min or two, stop. Review converting the rust and carding as mentioned above. This is the best method overall, but for just a couple flecks oil and wool will suffice.
If wood is near, take it off. First try kroil or similar and a rag, if that does not do it very lightly go after it with 0000 steel wool while keeping wet with oil. When I say lightly, I mean lightly, let the wool do its job. If you start making rust slurry, stop, clean it off with oil and clean your wool in mineral spirits or the like. If the rust does not go away in a min or two, stop. Review converting the rust and carding as mentioned above. This is the best method overall, but for just a couple flecks oil and wool will suffice.
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
A nice easy/lazy way to stop the rust immediately.
ETA use sparingly. You almost always pour way more than needed. For a gun I would use a q-tip and apply very lightly after cleaning with acetone.
ETA use sparingly. You almost always pour way more than needed. For a gun I would use a q-tip and apply very lightly after cleaning with acetone.
kev74
20×102mm Vulcan
Top coat with krylon?
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
Heh. I suppose you could but I have a feeling 2Wheel wants to maintain the nice blueing on some old guns. I would consider corroseal a stop gap measure to stop the rust before deciding what to do. BTW interesting little factoid but corroseal smells like elmers glue lol.
kev74
20×102mm Vulcan
Does that stuff wash off? I could see it making the bluing less presentable, especially if it were to "convert" the blue oxidation.
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
The stuff that doesn't convert any rust does. It's water based. I would only use it to stop rust on a gun. I wouldn't use it for the actual finish. For a bluing job I'm going with everyone else on #0000 steel wool. For a paint job this would be ok to use though.
I always have these on hand. Red is more aggressive. It's good for smoothing out journals on ak barrels pre pressing but of course can be used for 1001 other things.
