nortatoga
.338 Win Mag
You can also pull the bolt out and look own the barrel to make sure you are not the scope is not way off!
Can't Zero my Scope :(
- Thread starter DoD1776
- Start date
They are
A lot of people get the rings wrong
start at the rifle and move up to the scope checking all the connections are solid and flat and even
Did you check level of the rifle
than check the level the rail
then check level the rings
then check level of the scope?
start at the rifle and move up to the scope checking all the connections are solid and flat and even
Did you check level of the rifle
than check the level the rail
then check level the rings
then check level of the scope?
My scope isn't one of those kind of scopes, all you gotta do is put it up to the rail, twist the knobs and it attaches to the rails
does it have iron sights on it sounds like that's the good option
Never
Blimey
.450/400 Nitro Ex
I have given up on cheap scopes except for a 22. You don't need to spend tons of money, but something like a cheap nikon is as low as I'll get now on any gun I am serious about.
ProgSpear
.338 Win Mag
This is the critical first step. Sandbag the rifle so it won't shift as you switch between sighting thru the barrel and the scope, at a target no more than 25 yards away. keep in mind that the scope height will need to be taken into account at that range, and the target style below may help. It assumes you have a 1" scope height Once you get the crosshairs on the green (with the bore sight on the red) then shoot a group to confirm. When you KNOW you are good at 25, then you can work to 100, and likely be on paper.
http://mytargets.com/target107varmint.pdf
gun_slinger_boy
.338 Win Mag
You said you tried bore sighting? That's by far the easiest way to get on paper. And as others have said use a BIG target. I mean as big as possible. Get one of those rolls of paper from the crafts section at walmart and cut a 5 foot piece off and hang it. Trying a little target can be very frustrating as you have no idea where the round could be hitting.
Obviously with the bore laser you would just put the cross hairs where the laser is and then work from there. I think the really yuge target will help you the most.
Obviously with the bore laser you would just put the cross hairs where the laser is and then work from there. I think the really yuge target will help you the most.
Jmac00
.475 A&M Magnum
I think this boils down to one very simple solution. Get a decent scope. I got one off the internet for $89. It's a 6 to 12 variable x 40 with an illuminated reticles and is good out to 600 yards. ( I think I got it a website called "Dvore" dot com)
This is my procedure for dialing in a rifle and scope, for hunting. ( I use only a front rest for dialing in a scope for hunting) This also works for precision target shooting, but will take a lot more rounds and will require a locked down bench rest.
First I laser bore sighted it at 25 feet
Next I put three round group on paper at 25-to-100 feet (as 'locators', the distance depends on the minimum distance the scope will go and still focus)......dialed it into the 10 ring with as many rounds as necessary. Try to keep it to ¾" in the 10 ring
Next, I moved a new target out to 25 yards.....put three round group on target( again as locators).....dialed it into the ten ring with as many rounds as necessary. Generally 6 to 10 rounds. sometimes more.
Next, I move a new target out to 50 yards....put three more on target.......move out 50 yards at a time until I get to 200 yards (thats longest I can shoot at the club)
I continue this methodology until I get a 1½" group at 200 yards. Thats a pretty good group for a cheap scope at 200 yards for hunting purposes.
also I use only my own reloads. I never use factory ammo.
you can get FREE targets here: MYTARGETS.COM Free Targets That Print In PDF Format
good luck, have fun, Merry Christmas
This is my procedure for dialing in a rifle and scope, for hunting. ( I use only a front rest for dialing in a scope for hunting) This also works for precision target shooting, but will take a lot more rounds and will require a locked down bench rest.
First I laser bore sighted it at 25 feet
Next I put three round group on paper at 25-to-100 feet (as 'locators', the distance depends on the minimum distance the scope will go and still focus)......dialed it into the 10 ring with as many rounds as necessary. Try to keep it to ¾" in the 10 ring
Next, I moved a new target out to 25 yards.....put three round group on target( again as locators).....dialed it into the ten ring with as many rounds as necessary. Generally 6 to 10 rounds. sometimes more.
Next, I move a new target out to 50 yards....put three more on target.......move out 50 yards at a time until I get to 200 yards (thats longest I can shoot at the club)
I continue this methodology until I get a 1½" group at 200 yards. Thats a pretty good group for a cheap scope at 200 yards for hunting purposes.
also I use only my own reloads. I never use factory ammo.
you can get FREE targets here: MYTARGETS.COM Free Targets That Print In PDF Format
good luck, have fun, Merry Christmas
HUH?
A real rifleman can use any system
Iron or glass!
I have seen people with iron sights out shoot tons of people who use scopes
Jmac00
.475 A&M Magnum
depends on how good your eyes are. I wear glasses, no line bifocals ~~~ it sux. thats why I use a scope
My eyes ain't no good at distances less than arms length. Front and rear sights are a little fuzzy.depends on how good your eyes are. I wear glasses, no line bifocals ~~~ it sux. thats why I use a scope
depends on how good your eyes are. I wear glasses, no line bifocals ~~~ it sux. thats why I use a scope
Ha ha I know exactly what you're saying I have old eyes and glasses
sounds like you need a carbine with Peepsights. That rear aperture gives you better depth of field and you can see the front sight
RandallOfLegend
.40 S&W
Make sure you are not resting the rifle by the barrel. Start at 25 yards. Get the windage correct, and try to shoot 2 inches high. Then increase the range to 50, then 100 yards.
Jmac00
.475 A&M Magnum
holdover
.475 A&M Magnum
You will never get good results from garbage material . The principle cannot be denied. if you want to shoot well with a scoped rifle you need to get a good rifle and good rings and a good scope. Really no way around that . This will work, and that wont. or it will break soon . You can have a custom made Remington 700 , bedded Timney trigger Shilen barrel and with out sights , you wont hit a barn at 150 yards , The scope and rings are every bit as important to hit a target as the bullet or rifle. Its all part of the package.
A good scope will run you as much as a rifle ., That's just the way it is (you can get deals on arm broker for used ones too)
A good scope will run you as much as a rifle ., That's just the way it is (you can get deals on arm broker for used ones too)
Blimey
.450/400 Nitro Ex
Some people do have luck with combo scopes on their guns, but before long you need to consider how much money you're spending on the ammo to zero an entry level scope. The last gun I bought had a combo scope. I sold the scope on ebay as a brand new, unused item. I put its money toward a nikon prostaff that I got for a song around black friday.
Most (all?) old timers will tell you to put money into the scope. But when you're starting out, as you are, and as I was recently, we think we know better and that the $50 scope that looks similar to the $200 or the $1000 scope must be pretty much the same. It has a couple pieces of glass, is black, claims to be good for rifles, right? The people spending hundreds or thousands must be wasting their money. Well, they aren't. It is too bad manufacturers bundle scopes, because people end up having issues.
Most (all?) old timers will tell you to put money into the scope. But when you're starting out, as you are, and as I was recently, we think we know better and that the $50 scope that looks similar to the $200 or the $1000 scope must be pretty much the same. It has a couple pieces of glass, is black, claims to be good for rifles, right? The people spending hundreds or thousands must be wasting their money. Well, they aren't. It is too bad manufacturers bundle scopes, because people end up having issues.
Eddie Gunks
.338 Win Mag
that is exactly why i dont offer (cheap) scopes on my rifles. people tell me to do it.....the way i see it if the scope is shit, the people blame the bad groups on the rifle.....never the scope.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
You can zero a rifle with one shot if you want.
Also you can get very close to zero w/o spending one single bullet.
When people zero they get the target close to get on the paper but you don't need to even shoot
one single round not to only get on the paper but to get in the area the point of impact is going to be.
First thing is to make sure everything is properly mounted, properly torqued with blue locktite and
the rifle fits your body shape and ergonomics for a natural and comfortable shooting position.
It is Christmas day. I will write the process later or tomorrow and we can put it on a sticky or something.
Others can put their own methods too. This might be found all over, we are not inventing anything here.
The scope might be crap but lets assume it is actually holding zero and, while less than ideal,
it could work. Lets help Daytorn determine if the scope can be used to a certain degree or it belongs in the trash.
Also you can get very close to zero w/o spending one single bullet.
When people zero they get the target close to get on the paper but you don't need to even shoot
one single round not to only get on the paper but to get in the area the point of impact is going to be.
First thing is to make sure everything is properly mounted, properly torqued with blue locktite and
the rifle fits your body shape and ergonomics for a natural and comfortable shooting position.
It is Christmas day. I will write the process later or tomorrow and we can put it on a sticky or something.
Others can put their own methods too. This might be found all over, we are not inventing anything here.
The scope might be crap but lets assume it is actually holding zero and, while less than ideal,
it could work. Lets help Daytorn determine if the scope can be used to a certain degree or it belongs in the trash.
RandallOfLegend
.40 S&W
Bullshit. I can land my hits in a 6 inch circle at 150 yards with my freebie combo scope with little effort. I am not an anomaly or an exceptional shooter. When you want to start shooting less than 2 MOA at range you need to spend some money on glass.
holdover
.475 A&M Magnum
Try it ,without any sights,and let us know how tight your group is.
Bvin66
9mm
This is the procedure I use.
There are other videos showing the same procedure.
To get my first shot on paper, I use either my bore sighter or remove the bolt to look down the barrel. Or as was said above get the biggest
piece of paper you can find to see that first shot.
I have done this alone with a 2x4 rest but it is way easier with a proper rest and a friend to help.
Once you can get a shot on paper at the range you want to be sighted at it only takes one more shot to verify your work.
There are other videos showing the same procedure.
To get my first shot on paper, I use either my bore sighter or remove the bolt to look down the barrel. Or as was said above get the biggest
piece of paper you can find to see that first shot.
I have done this alone with a 2x4 rest but it is way easier with a proper rest and a friend to help.
Once you can get a shot on paper at the range you want to be sighted at it only takes one more shot to verify your work.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
Dayton It is cold out so do you have a nice clear window in your house where you can see a tree or a fence at
25 yards but it can be 15 yards or 10 yards or 32 ?? maybe in the garage / driveway? ..whatever you can get that is nice in a more or less leveled angle
Also if you have at that point a way to setup a table or a cabinet where you can put your scope on or your rifle on
clamped down. It must be something relatively sturdy that doesn't move move like one of those flimsy picnic tables will not be good.
The idea is to have a target that is perpendicular with the bore and it is leveled. The target must have a grid.
To find out about the scope we don't even need the rifle and if one has one of those rails, even a cheap one that we can
bolt to a piece of 2x4 or even the scope itself strapped or with masking tape. the idea is that if I can clamp the
wood based to something sturdy while pointing to my target then it will not move at all when turning the turrets.
Or maybe you don't have any of these conditions but most people do.
In my basement I can get a straight line to the wall across the basement from my workbench at 11.5 yards. I measured this with a measuring tape. So I know for sure.
The idea is that if we use the rifle we can get the scope pretty close to the Point of impact but the main thing is to verify if the scope optics and mechanical adjustment actually works. I don't see why it wouldn't. Optically might be a bad scope but if it holds zero then it should be good for the average guy to go hunting that is why they give them away with these deals.
If it doesn't fall apart with the 30-06, that is also a possibility but lets not assume it is the scope's fault until we know.
Of course if you put the rifle and have a laser boresighter is going to help too but not 100% needed.
Let me know.
Let me explain more later.
25 yards but it can be 15 yards or 10 yards or 32 ?? maybe in the garage / driveway? ..whatever you can get that is nice in a more or less leveled angle
Also if you have at that point a way to setup a table or a cabinet where you can put your scope on or your rifle on
clamped down. It must be something relatively sturdy that doesn't move move like one of those flimsy picnic tables will not be good.
The idea is to have a target that is perpendicular with the bore and it is leveled. The target must have a grid.
To find out about the scope we don't even need the rifle and if one has one of those rails, even a cheap one that we can
bolt to a piece of 2x4 or even the scope itself strapped or with masking tape. the idea is that if I can clamp the
wood based to something sturdy while pointing to my target then it will not move at all when turning the turrets.
Or maybe you don't have any of these conditions but most people do.
In my basement I can get a straight line to the wall across the basement from my workbench at 11.5 yards. I measured this with a measuring tape. So I know for sure.
The idea is that if we use the rifle we can get the scope pretty close to the Point of impact but the main thing is to verify if the scope optics and mechanical adjustment actually works. I don't see why it wouldn't. Optically might be a bad scope but if it holds zero then it should be good for the average guy to go hunting that is why they give them away with these deals.
If it doesn't fall apart with the 30-06, that is also a possibility but lets not assume it is the scope's fault until we know.
Of course if you put the rifle and have a laser boresighter is going to help too but not 100% needed.
Let me know.
Let me explain more later.
ProgSpear
.338 Win Mag
I like this gun related stuff. Maybe we could do it more now that the silly season is over. Merry Christmas!
Blimey
.450/400 Nitro Ex
The last time I put a cheap scope on a gun I dislodged the wire reticle before even taking the first shot. It's not that all cheapie combo scopes are crap, but more of them are than more expensive ones. You'll be more likely to have it lose its seal over time (doesn't matter if you learn this at the range, but it does if you raise it on game and everything is clouded), clarity won't be as good, low-light won't be as good, it will be less likely to hold zero. I have a $50 simmons scope on a 22 I am satisfied with for that use, but I can barely feel its clicks (I sure as hell can't hear them). The last combo scope I got was decently rated, but it also required a coin to adjust. That's a hassel; my recent one is finger adjustable, nice clicks, and has a zero-reset turret, plus a lifetime warranty and excellent clarity.
GUNSICK
6.5 Creedmoor
Let's see picks of your setup.
^^^^ This
Also I don't think you really described the issue your having. Can you not get on paper? Can you not dial the rounds to the bull's-eye? Are the shots not grouping? All of these different issues could be a different problem or the same one.
meketrefe
.450/400 Nitro Ex
@Dayton, tell us when you are ready to look at this.
I'm tired of Iron