Must have tools for upper build

[Depick]

Barrels have no secrets. The main thing is to make sure that:
1-They come from decent stock and the cut profile makes sense (Stay away from M4 style carbine)
2-they are properly cut and reamed chambered (sometimes makers make stupid mistakes)
3-They are properly finished if one wants a specific type of finishing.

This is an example of a barrel that makes sense but it is pricey.

X-Caliber AR15 Duty Barrel - 16", .223 Wylde, Midlength, Thermal Fluted, QPQ BlackNitride™

X-Caliber AR15 Duty Barrel - 16", .223 Wylde, HBAR, Midlength Gas, 1:7" Twist, 5/8"x24 muzzle threads, Thermal Fluted, QPQ BlackNitride™.

www.x-caliber.net

W/o thermal fluting, here you can order a SPR with 3R rifling and 5/8 threads for $300....

Configure Your Custom AR-15 Barrel

Build a custom AR-15 barrel. Made to order, see footer for production lead time estimates.

www.x-caliber.net

On the budget side the Stoner from Midway is a Douglas barrel with 5R and mid length porting. it will work just fine.

AR-STONER Barrel AR-15 223 Remington (Wylde) Medium Contour 1 8 Twist

This AR-STONER™ AR-15 223 Remington (Wylde) Barrel is perfect for competition where accuracy and reliability are imperative to a successful match....

www.midwayusa.com

Then grab an M16 carrier and a young manufacturing or ARP bolt that are beefed up and properly treated with 9310 VAC ARC
steel that makes it superior to mil spec and most ohter stuff out there and cheaper than JP.

National Match Chrome 556 Bolt - Young Manufacturing, Inc.

Our National Match Chrome 5.56mm bolt is made from SAE 9310 steel and Precision Ground in three critical areas after heat treating to Mil- Spec. This provides

youngmanufacturing.net

That’s a nice barrel for half the price of what I was looking at. I’m gonna go with your recommendation.

 

[meketrefe]

That’s a nice barrel for half the price of what I was looking at. I’m gonna go with your recommendation.

Which one the Xcaliber or 3R or the Stoner (Douglas made for Midway)??
There are other good bolts but the ARP and young are beefed up on the radius at the lug base and then made of
stronger steel all far superior to mil-spec.
Same with the 7.62x39. I have yet to see one of their bolts with a broken lug.
Young are an actual manufacturing and cut for other brands and then they over price it.
ARP they outsource their design to a manufacturing but they have strict quality control vs. retailers
that do not design or know much about machining.

 

[Depick]

Which one the Xcaliber or 3R or the Stoner (Douglas made for Midway)??
There are other good bolts but the ARP and young are beefed up on the radius at the lug base and then made of
stronger steel all far superior to mil-spec.
Same with the 7.62x39. I have yet to see one of their bolts with a broken lug.
Young are an actual manufacturing and cut for other brands and then they over price it.
ARP they outsource their design to a manufacturing but they have strict quality control vs. retailers
that do not design or know much about machining.

The Stoner

 

[meketrefe]

The Stoner

Douglas barrels are fine. The barrel is almost free when compared to the ammo one is going to shoot with it.

 

[shootemup]

We will be as specific as you want.

The vise block is not needed and total waste of dollars.

The strongest way is to clamp it on its side with two small pieces of wood for both protection and clear the pivot holes.
The piece yo are going going to put on one side is going to be thicker than the length of the pivot pieces and fit between
them so you can clamp the receiver against the other side that is the rail with the other wood block on the other side.
This is not theory but a well proven method used hundreds of times. I can send you a picture if you want.

The torque wrench is not needed if you have a good torque because you have to stop at the indexing point. At the time it gets too hard and
if you are not able to index with the gas tube then it is time to back out and tighten again and if that doesn't do it then either shave the
mouth on the lathe or use a couple of shims. Almost never you will be able to put exactly what the torque value is and there is not exact torque value because it will also depend on what type of nut you are using.

 

[spat]

We will be as specific as you want.

The vise block is not needed and total waste of dollars.

The strongest way is to clamp it on its side with two small pieces of wood for both protection and clear the pivot holes.
The piece yo are going going to put on one side is going to be thicker than the length of the pivot pieces and fit between
them so you can clamp the receiver against the other side that is the rail with the other wood block on the other side.
This is not theory but a well proven method used hundreds of times. I can send you a picture if you want.

The torque wrench is not needed if you have a good torque because you have to stop at the indexing point. At the time it gets too hard and
if you are not able to index with the gas tube then it is time to back out and tighten again and if that doesn't do it then either shave the
mouth on the lathe or use a couple of shims. Almost never you will be able to put exactly what the torque value is and there is not exact torque value because it will also depend on what type of nut you are using.

Torque value would have to consider the condition of the threads too.

A simple change in lubricant can double or halve the torque required to achieve the same tension in the threaded member.

For instance SAE 30 oil vs clean and dry is a 40% change.

One type of grease vs anti-seize is going to throw the required torque level off way more than the difference between "by feel" and a torque wrench.

 

[meketrefe]

Torque value would have to consider the condition of the threads too.

A simple change in lubricant can double or halve the torque required to achieve the same tension in the threaded member.

For instance SAE 30 oil vs clean and dry is a 40% change.

One type of grease vs anti-seize is going to throw the required torque level off way more than the difference between "by feel" and a torque wrench.

Good point. I think on big issue is that the people tend to over-torque the barrels. No much is needed even in bolt action nuts
where the rifle is actually headspaced by the position of the barrel inside the receiver. Even 30-50lbs that nut is not going anywhere and obviusly more than plenty for any AR vs. passing the indexing point and then torquing that thing like there is no end.
The best thing is to ask a professional or a good machinist that might follow (or not) the online "recipes".

A standard torque value is a rather absurd and arbitrary when you have all sort of materials involved, different alloys, different hardness and finishes for receivers, barrels, nuts and rails/handguards, even including some proprietary or standard nut locking systems.

Some sort of anti-seize or grease is a must have to prevent galling that can become a huge problem. Some manufactures still make this mistake or maybe the try to save what, like 2 cents in grease?

On the bolt action side, I even had a few R700 and one winchester with barrel threads with some sort of threadlocker BS that looked more like freaking epoxy so they made
a mess in the threads and barrel that, to start with, they are not what they used to be anyway. I almost broke my tool that is a huge bad ass locking block that I had to torque all the way to 200ft-lbs on each side. I even though I was going to snap the 3ft breaking bar I had, all to break a freaking action. I know more than one guy would have given up. I was not even worried about deforming the barrel but snapping the tool or the action in the process.
changing calibers or re-barreling is supposed to be a simple task.
That is how bad things get when people and/or companies do not build things properly.
I have removed rusted struts and trailing arms from cars that were easier than breaking some actions open w/o a single trace of rust.
It gets pretty brutal sometimes. not sure what goes through their minds when building things.

 

[holdover]

I have a muzzle brake that has a pin in it , I need to get it off to change the gas block and barrel , any advice?

 

[cgrutt]

I have a muzzle brake that has a pin in it , I need to get it off to change the gas block and barrel , any advice?

Dremel with grinding stone...

 

[holdover]

Do I have to drill it out?

 

[holdover]

Bought a light weight M16 BCG . just snake oil, or does it smooth the recoil?

 

[cgrutt]

Depends how deep the weld is I'd try grinding the weld off and see if pin falls* out.

* might need some persuasion with rubber mallet.

 

[holdover]

might give it a try in the morning

 

[holdover]

Im new to building , but trying it out anyway. I was going to buy the tools for it and that was holding me back . All you have to do is line up the barrel to the receiver? I have my finger on a Larue upper , just about ready to pull the trigger.

 

[FrankenCub]

Generally the pins will fall out after the weld is ground away, I've never seen one that was pressed into the hole.
The barrel will only mount in one position so you can't screw that up. Easy peasy.
I don't know if you're going to notice a difference in the BCG, not like there's much recoil to begin with.

 

[holdover]

Thanks a lot . I wasnt sure on how to remove it

 

[FrankenCub]

I didn't bother pinning mine, I had access to a mig so I tacked it in a couple spots. Was easier than setting up my drill press lol.

 

[meketrefe]

Bought a light weight M16 BCG . just snake oil, or does it smooth the recoil?

What recoil?
light weight carrier and M16 do not go together, should not even been in the same paragraph. lol
light weight in a DI group in an AR is looking for trouble IMO. I doesn't mean it might not work, it means a heavier group
slows down and it is always easier to balance with any type of load and configuration. This was one of the biggest areas of research after all the
mistakes made by the US Army with the M4 style ARs and carbine ported barrels and all the AR15 tacticool saturday night fever that followed.
One needs to go back and read the original stoner concepts and how they came to certain decissions and then why inexplicably
some modern manufactures are trying to bypass some pretty well established directives from the engineers who invented the system and improved the original system and spent more time with it than anybody else.

 

[holdover]

I got this one.

Brownells: Since 1939 | Guaranteed. Forever.®

Browse a HUGE selection of gun parts, gunsmithing tools, reloading equipment, ammunition, firearms, and more! Committed to 2A and the community since 1939.

www.brownells.com

 

[meketrefe]

Do I have to drill it out?

yes very carefully drill it out. better on a mill.
that is the worse spot to put a pin, big mistake many make since it goes on the trehads and I bet might even be 1/2 threads that are
already a less than desirable minor diameter.
So set up a mil and go slowly with a micrometer and control depth and once you get to the threads try to break open the muzzle after you get just past the threads.
so calculate the OD of your barrel. lets say .750 - the threads (lets say .5 that is setup the dial to .260. (10 thousands past the threads) then try to break it open.
I am assuming 1/2 threads but maybe you have 5/8, do you know? what caliber is it ?

...that is why I suggest a mill.

 

[meketrefe]

I got this one.

Brownells: Since 1939 | Guaranteed. Forever.®

Browse a HUGE selection of gun parts, gunsmithing tools, reloading equipment, ammunition, firearms, and more! Committed to 2A and the community since 1939.

www.brownells.com

Makers do not know what shit to make up and retailers go and sell it.
Can you still return it or exchange it?

 

[holdover]

I dont know, do I need to?

 

[meketrefe]

I dont know, do I need to?

well, do you want a more reliable and versatile group the way it should be or not?

 

[holdover]

I would guess so.

 

[holdover]

I never built a high performance gun , or any gun . So Im susceptible to every sucker trick out there. I was looking for a good BCG . I was informed
that the light weight group doesnt smash into the weapon forward or backward with as much force , reduceing felt recoil. Using an adjustable gas block to tune in the rifle for more or less gas , to keep the Bolt operating properly.

Is it all horse shit?

 

[meketrefe]

I never built a high performance gun , or any gun . So Im susceptible to every sucker trick out there

stick to standard well balanced configurations of well made parts and forget about tacticool recipes.

...if you like shiny this is an awesome group. obviously out of stock right now...

YM Standard M16 w/ HMB Bolt Complete - Young Manufacturing, Inc.

This is our standard M16 Bolt Carrier Group. As with all of our carriers we leave material on all critical areas then send them out for heat treat. Next we

youngmanufacturing.net

 

[holdover]

Cgrutt is that a yes or a no?

 

[holdover]

stick to standard well balanced configurations of well made parts and forget about tacticool recipes.

...if you like shiny this is an awesome group. obviously out of stock right now...

YM Standard M16 w/ HMB Bolt Complete - Young Manufacturing, Inc.

This is our standard M16 Bolt Carrier Group. As with all of our carriers we leave material on all critical areas then send them out for heat treat. Next we

youngmanufacturing.net

So your saying the one I got might not work so well?

 

[cgrutt]

Cgrutt is that a yes or a no?

Huh? Lol...

I'd definitely defer to @mek on these things much more experience than me....

With that said I'd try the dremel if you dont have a press or mill.

 

[meketrefe]

So your saying the one I got might not work so well?

No. it might work fine but also might give you some issues with this or other loads, barrels later on.
Again, it doesn't mean it will not work but, by design, they are harder to balance across all type of loads, ports and barrel configurations.
What you want in the group is to stick to the original M16 group configuration with better materials if you want but same dimensions/weight.

The young manufacturer bolts, like the ARP bolts are about 20% stronger than other bolts because the slightly increased lug radius and the
stronger 9310 Vac ARC alloy and treatment vs. the tipical carpenter 158.
so they are far superior to mil spec and pretty much everything else out there.
I mean, you can get a JP bolt that are also great but you will be paying more than those and they are not stronger than young or arp.
In any case I just checked and everyone seems to be out of stock of the good stuff, possibly because of the buying craze of he last few weeks.